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Wine Advocate: 91 Points
The 2015 Mosel Riesling Fio displays an intense, golden-yellow color and opens with an intense and tropical-scented bouquet with a richness and lactic creaminess that is reminiscent of cliché Alsace rather than Mosel, though the lovely slate tone is virtually missing in Alsatian wines. On the palate, this is a light rather than medium-bodied, refined and elegant Piesporter with stimulating grip and salinity on the finish yet not much complexity.
Vinous: 90 Points
This rendition of Fio’s “Fio” bottling, in keeping with the character of its vintage, features a full degree more alcohol (at 11.5%) than did its predecessor from the year before, but it still projects the sense of levity for which Kettern and the Niepoorts strive. It originates with the same Goldtröpchen vines and underwent the same two years in fuder followed by unfiltered, low-sulfur bottling as that 2014, and exhibits similarly high-toned floral notes, but here those are sweeter and less on the volatile, distilled side. Moss, wet stone, white peach and lemon are featured alongside. The polished, glossy midpalate offers a corresponding amalgam of mineral, fruity and floral elements, leading to a finish that manages to combine a caressing, mouth-coating feel with stimulating brightness and significant transparency to stony, mossy underpinnings. As with most Fio wines, I am merely doing my best to speculate as regards this one’s aging potential.
James Suckling: 90 Points
With its unusual combination of toffee-apple and toast aromas, very crisp acidity and considerable substance (also tannins), you’ll either love this alternative Mosel riesling or reach for something else. We find it both fascinating and a bit challenging, but with cassoulet or hearty dishes it could really shine. A joint venture of Douro winemaker, Dirk Niepoort and Mosel vintner, Philipp Kettern, matured for two years on the full lees in barrel. Drink or hold.
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